We booked through Tanager
Tours based on TripAdvisor Reviews. Tanager Tours owns Heliconia B&B and
acres of land that they have re-forested. Heliconia Bed and Breakfast is located in Palmilla, Mariato district, on the Western Azuero Pacific coast of Veraguas, Panama. http://hotelheliconiapanama.com/
We drove about 3 ½ hours to
get to the B&B.
signs that look like police with radar
wind farm near Penonome
we stopped at the local Chino to buy water
farm
first view of the ocean
We found the B&B and since it was lunch time and too early to
check in we drove to the next pueblo and had lunch at a fonda named Thelma’s
Kitchen. Food was good, but about twice the price of a usual fonda. (we are
pretty much out in the middle of nowhere after all….) While we were there
another car pulled up and we recognized a realtor that lives in our building.
He came in and said “hello neighbors”. He was in the area checking on a housing
development he is working on. We then drove back to the B&B and checked in.
We were shown to our room (1 of the 4 they have) after being introduced to the
Long Nosed Bats that spend the day on the ceiling of the entry way of the room
next door.
Thelma Kitchen
Greg's fish
my chicken
inside the fonda
Heliconia B&B
social area/dining room
Long-nosed Bats
Our room was clean and
comfortable. We went to the social area and found 2 ladies there that had
already checked in. So we chatted with them for a while and watched the
hummingbirds that come to the feeders. Then, 2 more ladies came out and joined
us. I was worried I might be the only “girl” on the trip, but now I was
wondering if Greg might be the only guy. Later another couple came. We were
told another couple was coming for dinner but they were staying at another inn
since their B&B was full. So, we were 3 couples and 2 sets of 2 ladies
traveling together. There was a wide range of ages from 20’s to 84. They had Hummingbird feeders and Greg got some nice shots of them. Plus, they are just so addictive to watch.
After chatting with the
other travelers we went for a walk on their property that has some nice trails
and a short walk on the street. The young Chachalaca came running right up to us. Kees told us that the eggs are often left with the chickens to raise. Plus, they are supposed to be tasty.
Rufous-browed Peppershrike
Bat House
countryside
Ruddy Ground Dove
Squirrel
immature Chachalaca
immature Chachalaca
Dinner was at 7:00 and they
served a nice 3 course meal of a home-made roasted red pepper soup, fish in a
tasty sauce and a warm cobbler with ice cream for dessert. For breakfast there
was bread for toast, fruit, yogurt, granola and meats, cheeses, peanut butter
and jams. We were told to make sandwiches for lunch on the island that day.
After that we loaded the gear into a truck and since there were so many of us
they had to make 2 trips to the boat launch. They normally only go with 1 boat,
but since so many wanted to go that week they hired a second boat and captain
to get us all there.
It’s about a 2 ½ hour bumpy
ride in the boat to the island. We saw a lot of dolphins and a few turtles as
well as quite a lot of flying fish. So far the trip was going pretty good!
Amilio
the other boat with us
Windstar Cruises was there for the day
We got to the island and
jumped off the boat into the water and waded to shore. We had to check in with
ANAM and get our cabin assigned. Then we went and “claimed our beds”. Our room
had us and 2 ladies and the other room had the other 2 ladies and 2 couples.
Our group was assigned a kitchen that Loes and Kees used to prepare our meals.
our cabin
our room
Windstar cruises bring their beach lounges to shore
they also bring a nice buffet on the beach (not for us of course)
the beach
shift change of police on the island
Then, the “plans” seemed to
fall apart. Loes said the coolers with our lunch were at the kitchen and we
could eat now or wait and eat on the beach where we would snorkel from. We had
at least a half hour to kill until we left to snorkel. Kees said the coolers
were still on the boat and we had to wait until the island to eat. So, we
“wasted” half an hour or more waiting for the “pefect” tide. So, we all got on
the boats to go to the snorkel spot. Then, it was hurry the tides are perfect.
But, if you wanted to eat you could quickly eat a sandwich. Hogging down a
sandwich to then hurry into the water was ridiculous. Then, we snorkeled and we
saw a lot fish and some turtles. We got separated from the group that was going
to snorkel around the island. (the plan changed and not everyone was there to
know) When they came back around we joined them and since they were going back
on shore we came in too. We finished eating our lunch and we thought the
snorkeling was over so we peeled out of our skins/wetsuits. Then, we were all
just hanging around and they said, if you want to go back in you can. It was
too much trouble to gear up again so we just hung out watching the hermit crabs
and checking out some birds. It would have been nice to know how long we were
there so we could have planned our time in the water better. A few others were
grumbling about the lack of a plan. There was no need to rush into the water as
it stayed pretty shallow the whole time we were there.
There was a walk in the
woods after that. So, we went back and grabbed proper footwear and boated to
the hiking path. It was long and a bit hilly. We were told sandals would be
fine, but honestly tennis shoes or hiking boots would have been better. Our
boat assistant Amilio helped one lady that needed a helping hand with the
terrain. He was a gem! We saw birds and snakes. Then we circled an island with Brown Boobies.
the easy part of the trail
Comon Black Hawk
snake
Brown Booby
Brown Booby
Brown Booby
We went back to our campsite
and there was time to get showers before dinner. The ladies were going to
shower at the cabin and we were going to go to the public one. While we
gathered our stuff it was determined that the water in the cabin had gone out.
So, by the time we got to the public showers (2 stalls for men and 2 stalls on
the women’s side) everyone was lined up to shower. No dressing rooms there, so
we just dried off and dressed on the wet floor by the sinks. (no door on the
whole room so if anyone walked by they would see you…lol) It was a “cold dinner”
that night. Sandwiches and potato salad. They served wine for everyone and diet
coke for me. Dessert was a chocolate candy. Before dinner we were treated to see the resident HUGE crocodile Tito.
Tito
Then it was early to bed and
up early for our morning walk. We were told that it was half the length of the
one the day before and flat. I had on flip flops since they said it would be
fine. They kept saying the tides were going out and we may have to walk a bit
to get back to the boat. Well, we did the walk which was fine, but the bit of a
walk to get to the boat was twice as long as the trail and over rocks large and
small and mud. I got 4 spots rubbed raw from my flip flops and got eaten alive
with biting black flies on my calves. One lady yelled at Loes that her friend
could have fallen and broken a hip. How could they not know that would happen
(the tide going out so far)? She said you do this all the time why isn’t it
more organized and why aren’t we informed what the conditions would really be
like? I felt bad for Loes, but the lady had a point. We track the tides for our
walks on the beach and it’s not rocket science…..
sunrise
Festive parrots
smaller croc seen on our boat trip in the mangroves on the way to the hike
these Capuchins were next to our cabins in the morning
boat ride to the Mangroves
Whimbrel in a tree
Scarlet Macaws (there were 2 in the trees)
Mangroves
Little Blue Heron
large cicada
me and the others on the trail
Coiba Howler Monkey
Coiba Spinetail
cute Anole
the group at the hot springs
part of our long walk back to the boat
We all wanted a look at the
old prison on the island, but were told we couldn’t swing by to get close on
the way out since we had to hurry to get to the walk before the tides went out.
Then were told on the way back since the tide had gone out we couldn’t get
close either. So, here is a shot from a distance and I think it’s actually of
the ANAM cabins there not the actual prison.
We went back to our camp and
had lunch which was a wonderful broccoli soup and bread. Plus, there were some
meats and cheeses for sandwiches. After lunch we were going snorkeling again.
We were supposed to go to 3 snorkel sites, but since the walk was so arduous
they said they could split the 2 boats for 1 to go to 2 snorkel sites and the
other just to 1. In the end everyone decided to do both except the one lady
stayed behind on the beach to relax. (she made the right choice)
The first place was an entry
to the water from the boat. They had ladders to get back in the boat, but they were
the shortest ones I have ever seen, just 2 rungs and it was hard to get your
foot high enough to get on the bottom step. The snorkeling there was good.
However, again the group took off in a different direction than we were told
and we were off by ourselves. Loos caught up with us to make sure we were OK.
Then, getting back in the boat I had my footing on the boat and when I had to
lift one foot up to step over the hump to get to my seat, my foot slammed into
this metal thing by the motor and instantly got a goose-egg on my foot. It
swelled and was purple and hurt like heck. I wasn’t sure I could even get my
fin on for the next snorkel. The plan was that both boats would drop us all in
the water to snorkel and one would stay out there for those that wanted to get
back in the boat and the other would go to the beach and we could snorkel to
shore and get in the boat there. We’re in the water and I guess the plan
changed again. They took off in the opposite direction of what our boat was
told. Plus, both boats stayed out there. I said no way am I climbing back in
the boat after what happened last time. So, one boat goes to shore. Some guy
told me to go to the playa so I started to snorkel to shore. As I’m doing it
the boat comes straight towards me and didn’t wait for me to snorkel back to
shore. So, I have to get back in by that same damn ladder and despite taking
extra care getting in…firmly planting my foot and then it slips and smashes
into the same metal thing in the same place on my foot. Holy crap that hurt!
Here are the photos from all of the snorkel trips:
King Angelfish
Guineafowl Pufferfish
Green White-spotted Pufferfish
Moorish Idols
Green White-spotted Pufferfish
Starry Moray eel
Parrotfish
Guineafowl Pufferfish - yellow phase
King Angelfish
Blunt Headed Triggerfish
the beach where we snorkeled
Hermit Crabs on beach
our boats waiting for us
American Oyster Catcher on beach
Giant Hawkfish
So, back to camp to shower
and meet for dinner. Again, no water at our cabin. One lady got all soaped up
and it quit. So, we were all at the public ones again. I could barely get a
shoe on from my foot injury. Dinner was pasta and a wonderful sauce. A nice
chocolate candy for dessert.
Before dinner we were entertained by the mother Agouti and her 2 babies:
Next morning we were to pack
up and leave right after breakfast. On the way back we were to stop for one
last snorkel. It was another boat snorkel and my foot still was quite swollen
so I passed as did several others. Everyone else went in and enjoyed it. I
didn’t want to go for the “hat trick of pain” by climbing back in the boat and
slamming my foot on the same silver metal thing.
Before leaving the island we got some final shots:
sunrise
Bare-throated Tiger-Heron
Bare-throated Tiger-Heron
Mealy Parrots
Welcome Center
exhibits in Welcome Center
part of our group on the beach
After the 2 ½ hour boat ride
back and we had a nice lunch waiting for us of a potato pie quiche type thing
that was tasty. The ladies were already gone that were driving and everyone
else showered and grabbed lunch. One couple caught the earlier bus and the
other couple caught the later bus. One couple that was driving to Boquete was
still there at lunch when Kees said he just got a call from a lady that was
going to release some baby sea turtles and wanted to know if anyone there
wanted to go watch. The 4 of us jumped in our cars and drove to the beach and
met the lady and the turtles. Just amazing to watch them!
arrival back to the mainland - marina area
locals working on a motor
baby turtles in bucket
released them to run towards the ocean
yeah!
the lady showed us where they keep them safe until they are ready to release
they are buried in the sand
covered with palm fronds to keep them cool
We then went for a walk on
their property again and a short walk on the street again.
seed pods
interesting tree trunks
Blue Morpho Butterfly
why do the chickens cross the road?
house in the neighborhood
cemetery
Naked-necked Chickens (baby chicks)
We stayed an extra night and
it was just us there and our hosts and his parents that were visiting from Holland.
Another nice dinner of soup, meatballs and veggies and ice cream with amaretto
and a biscotti for dessert. Then, we went to see the tree frog that lives in
their guest bathroom. We were served breakfast again and then we left for our
ride home.
We were going to stop at
this store that gets imported American brand clothing on the way back in
Aquadulce. We stopped for gas and the attendant (yes, they pumped our gas) told
us we had a nail in our back sidewall tire. He told us where to get it fixed.
We drove in that direction and didn’t see it. So, I had noticed a tire place
right across the street from the gas station so we drove back there. They sell
tires there but don’t repair, but he drew in the dirt a map of where we needed
to go. So, they patched our tire and $5.00 later we were back on the road. We
were going to check out the salt flats that Kees told us about for birding. We
found it, but not really the best time of day or year for that matter to see
many birds, but we made note of it for later in the year. It was now lunch time so we got on
TripAdvisor to see where we could eat in Aguadulce. We went to the number 1
spot and they weren’t wrong. It was probably the best shrimp dish I have had
since we have been here. YUM!
Greg waiting for tire repair
the gate to tire place
salt flats
best shrimp EVER!
Greg's fish & Patacones
our car parked by painted wall
On the drive to the Salt Flats
we saw a place called Ropa Americana which was the name Jennifer told us where
she shopped, but we had seen Importadora Americana and it was large and figured
it had to be that place even though the name wasn’t right. While we ate lunch
we emailed her to ask which and the import place was it. The Ropa Americana
place we think is a charity. I found a couple of tops and some sleepwear. I
needed some more bottoms but found none. Need new swimsuits, but didn’t find
any. Greg got 3 t-shirts and a couple of pair of shorts. So, the place has
great potential!
On the way home we stopped
to pick up a few groceries and then home to unpack and shower and went out for
pizza.
So to recap, The Good, the
Bad and the Ugly:
The Good:
Loes and Kees from the
Netherlands were wonderful hosts and their B&B was nice and the meals were
most excellent. We would definitely stay at their B&B again.
The A/C finally worked in
our ANAM cabin once we were told we had to use the remote control to make it
work. Only 1 remote control that both separate rooms had to share, so we left
it in the hall between the rooms.
We added around 15 birds to
our count. Whoo Hoo!
The Bad:
Small Scorpion in our room
at the B&B came out of the snorkel bag and ran up onto the bed where I
killed it with my sandal.
The Ugly:
Water in our cabin did not
work except for a short time both days. (one toilet flush, half a shower for 1
person) So, the toilet was pretty nasty after a night of use.
I picked up some kind of
infection on the bottom of my left foot that started out small and then got
huge. I went to the doctor yesterday and he had to numb the bottom and the cut
a slit to see if anything was in there. He was sure there was, but only found
infection. So, limping around and taking an antibiotic orally as well as
locally on the cut he made. Wow, the shots in the foot hurt! I was yelping like
a wounded poodle. He asked if I wanted them to get my husband and I said “no,
he can hear me from here”.
I am missing our morning
walks. Hope this foot heals soon. (Update...I'm walking again, but it will take a while for the skin to grow over. It quite hurting a couple of days after he lanced it and the infection started to go away)
I added 3 new albums to
Picasa Web albums. Snorkeling on Coiba, Coiba Island tour and Tanager Tours for photos of the mainland and the B&B.
My next post will be on
Carol & Dave’s visit. Until then……
I feel your pain. I have broken my foot and then had cortisone shots in the heel and it is extremely painful. Sorry you are still healing and hope you are "back on your feet soon".
ReplyDelete