Antarctica Planning

Much like planning our trip to Africa, we put a lot of thought into the experience we wanted to have for visiting the white continent.

Choosing an expedition company and a ship:

We knew we didn’t want “a drive-by cruise” on a typical cruise ship. We love the typical cruise ship experience, but generally they rely on one shot (maybe 2) at getting a flight onto the Antarctic peninsula or a smaller boat making a landing depending on weather with really over-priced excursions just to spend a couple of hours there, with many people saying they didn’t get to go at all. If this isn't important to you, then a shorter more luxurious trip on a typical cruise ship would be your best option.

We wanted an expedition icebreaker ship with around 100 passengers since Antarctica has a 100 person at a time limit on shore at a time. Larger ships rotate the groups and you spend less time exploring on land and by zodiac.

How long the cruise should be was another consideration. The shorter ones didn’t go to South Georgia which is considered to be the Galapagos of the South for their diverse and plentiful wildlife or they skipped the Falklands and maybe had only one shot to make the landing on the peninsula. Plus, it was a long way to go and crossing the "dreaded" Drake Passage for just a few days really didn’t make a lot of sense to us. So, we opted for a longer cruise with 23 days on Quark that includes the Falkland Islands (Islas Malvinas), South Georgia Islands and it crosses the Antarctic Circle. We will have several days to attempt landings on the continent. Quick trips are fine to “tick the box” to say you’ve been there (nothing wrong with that either), but we want to actually experience it up close and personal and have more time to just be with the animals and watch their behavior. We want to be close to penguins waddling or tobogganing by and hear them and yes, even smell them. (people recommend something to put under your nose to prevent the gag factor) We wanted to get up close and personal to seals and possibly whales. Yes, even experience the dreaded Drake Passage as we could have chosen to fly that portion of the trip.

Quark came pretty highly recommended as a company for the experiences onboard and off on excursions. The expertise and competence of the expedition staff is very important on a trip like this. I’m sure the other ones would have done a fine job as well (I researched quite a few), but this one just seemed right.  http://www.quarkexpeditions.com/en/antarctic We chose Quark’s Sea Adventurer with 117 passengers. Since about 20 people will choose the kayak option offered, that will let everyone else go on shore at once. Weather can change quickly and the larger boats rotate whether you are on land or on a zodiac trip and many reported that only the first group got to go ashore as the weather suddenly got too bad to make another landing. (or the reverse)

We used the same travel company that booked our Amazon River Cruise. NEI Nature Expeditions International. http://www.naturexp.com/destinations/desti_antartica.html Michelle has been a joy to correspond with, providing prompt and thorough replies. I was going to book directly with Quark and got a comparison quote from NEI and it saved us a bunch. (15% early booking discount from Quark plus past passenger rebate of $550 per person with NEI). 

We booked cabin 105 on the Lower Deck. (in rough seas lower is better) Cabin placement probably isn’t a huge issue on a ship this small, and I’m sure like most cruises we won’t spend a huge amount of time there. (not like you can sit out on a balcony or even open a window.) So, since it’s a pricey trip, we opted for one of the cheapest type of cabins and since they are lower in the boat they should experience less motion in rough seas.

Quark included one night at the Albatros Hotel in Ushuaia, Argentina before the cruise. We added 1 more night there, just in case luggage/flights don’t go as scheduled. The intra-country airline is Aerolineas and Latin American airlines are notorious for strikes or just canceling flights and we didn’t want to risk not making the ship.

We also generally like to spend a few days before and after a cruise as well to explore the local area and again to make sure luggage catches up with us or if there are other issues. We fly into Buenos Aires and we have not been there before so we will spend a couple of days exploring.

CLOTHING:

Once we chose the expedition company and chose the itinerary and ship we wanted, the next thought was “we’re going to need more clothes”. OK, for those that know me, I’m a warm weather kind of girl. I don’t do cold. Someone (A. Wainright) said “There's no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing.” While I’m not convinced that is true, we did put a lot of research into the various layers we would need comparing different brands etc.

Quark provides a pretty good list and I read various reviews from people who had gone to Antarctica and they shared what they thought was useful and also what wasn’t useful.

Quark provides knee high muck boots for the duration of the cruise. They are waterproof for the wet landings and for ease of washing off penguin poo. They also provide a waterproof jacket with tons of pockets and a zip out fleece liner for warmth. Other than its’ bright yellow color, people seem to love them.

The one thing you don’t want to be is wet. So, it was recommended that you have a least 2 of everything in case one got wet, plus one could be washed and drying while you wore the other set. Weather could be warmer or colder than expected, so multiple layers to choose from was mandatory. (no, not to be worn all at the same time...though I might....ha ha.)

Base layers:

Lightweight: I had a combination of WinterSilks and Cuddl Duds already. They work well under regular clothing and can double as sleepwear. They will also come in handy if the wool mid-weight layer is too itchy or I need an extra layer of warmth. I ordered another pair of Climate Smart Cuddl Duds.

Midweight: I figured I would wear these the most. I got one pair of SmartWool and a pair of Patagonia Capilene®. Both have great wicking properties to keep moisture away from your body.

Expedition weight: I got one pair of Patagonia Capilene®.

Mid layers:

I bought 2 pair of fleece pants. The North Face TKA 100 Microvelour Pant fit me the best. I already had one pair I used in Alaska to use as backups that are Under Amour. I also have a couple of fleece tops if needed.

Outer layers:

Waterproof pants are mandatory to ride in the zodiacs. I got 2 pair of REI Rainwall pants. (•2.5-layer REI Elements®-rated nylon is waterproof, breathable and windproof up to 60 MPH) They had a petite size that did not need to be shortened. Since they have zippers in the legs, it would have been hard to get that done right. Greg ordered another brand that looked like balloon pants which he returned and got the REI brand for men. Much better fitting.

Quark’s parka will be the upper outer layer on top

We both got fleece lined waterproof hats with earflaps and a zip out face mask and a small bill to cut the sun glare. We got the Rando Goretex Waterproof Cap by Outdoor Research. “This Hat is built for ultimate winter weather protection. Water-resistant, ultralight 30D Pertex® Endurance fabric keeps out the elements, while Posh Pile™ fleece provides warm, wicking insulation. A zip-out face mask and fleece-lined earflaps provide adjustable protection from biting wind and snow, and the foam brim snaps up for greater visibility when you're eyeballing the route ahead.”

Arete Waterproof Glove Set (the outer gloves made of GORETEX, are insulated, offer grip, dexterity and waterproof protection for extended cold weather adventures. The compatible fleece glove liners offer added insulation & warmth in intense conditions and are easily removed by detaching them from their Velcro adhesive.  The silicone grip palm on the liners allows them to be worn independently from the shells on warmer days.) Plus, backup liners since using camera equipment with the bulky gloves would be impossible and if the under layer gets wet we’ll have backups.

Waterproof backpacks are a must as you must have your hands free to get into the Zodiac boats. We had gotten a 10 Liter one made by Aqua Quest for our Amazon trip. https://aquaquestonline.com/product/best-waterproof-kayak-boating-canoe-backpack-bag-aqua-quest-mariner-10-litres/  While it worked well for that trip it became evident a larger one would be needed for Antarctica. (once they are folded over at the top you lose some of the room to put things)

So we got another one from Overboard in 20 Liters. http://www.overboardusa.com/waterproof-backpack-20ltr-black.html It has more comfortable shoulder straps and an outside pocket and places to clip things to. The smaller one might be good for me to use. (though I doubt I will)

I got a fleece neck gaiter by Turtle Fur that also can be pulled up around my face. Scarves are OK, but if it’s windy you run the risk of it just blowing off of you on the zodiac or on land. I did toss in my fleece scarf just in case. I also have a matching fleece cap if needed for extra warmth or to use if it's not that cold or windy.

I already had SmartWool socks in several thicknesses. Sock liners were also needed. Greg got felt liners to put in the provided boots. I wear orthotics so I imagine they will insulate some as well.

Shoes for on board the ship must have a good rubber grip in case the ship is rocking and rolling.

The dress aboard the ship is quite casual. Jeans, SPF type pants or khakis are fine. Most people say they keep the ship too warm. (perhaps it’s all the clothes we may have on?)

I suspect once we are all “geared up” we will waddle like the penguins! On top of all that we have to wear the life preserver and a waterproof backpack.

If you plan on doing the polar plunge at the “hot springs” at Deception Island, bring a bathing suit. We think we will forgo that experience.

Misc:

Sunscreen for the intense sun and SPF lip balm

Moisturizer as the air will be really dry

2 Flat water bottles by Vapur https://vapur.us/

Binoculars

Cameras & lots of batteries and memory cards

Electrical converters (ship is 220)

Foot and hand warmers

Smaller dry bags & zip lock bags 

"mini pharmacy" of just in case meds, first aid etc.

 

Buenos Aries will be hot as will Iguazu Falls so we needed a few short sleeved shirts as well. 

Books to bring/read:

I read the book Endurance: Shackleton's Incredible Voyage by Alfred Lansing which is the amazing story of Sir Ernest Shackleton’s journey. The book recounts the Trans-Antarctic Expedition led by Sir Ernest Shackleton in its attempt to cross the Antarctic continent in 1914 and the subsequent struggle for survival endured by the twenty-eight man crew for almost two years. Endurance refers to the ship Shackleton used for the expedition. The ship was eventually crushed by ice floes in the Weddell Sea leaving the men stranded on the pack ice. All in all the crew drifted on the ice for just over a year. Their harrowing story of survival was riveting. The fierce weather conditions and their fight for survival in finding food to keep them alive were amazing. They were able to launch their boats (basically life boats) and somehow managed to land them safely on Elephant Island. Shackleton then led a crew of five aboard the James Caird through the Drake Passage and miraculously reached South Georgia Island 650 nautical miles away. He then took two of those men on the first successful overland crossing of the island. Three months later he was finally able to rescue the remaining crew members they had left behind on Elephant Island. (there’s also a movie of this if that is more your thing)

To bring with us for wildlife identification, I got the Antarctica Cruising Guide by Peter Carey & Craig Franklin. It has great descriptions and photos of the wildlife, places and the ice formations. It’s small and fairly lightweight.

Visas:

We needed to get a Reciprocity visa for Argentina. It was easily filled out online and then printed out to bring with us. It’s good for 10 years.

We already have our visa for Brazil, which is only needed if you go to the Brazilian side of Iguazu Falls. (which we are doing after the cruise before we fly home)

The Sea Adventurer – info on the ship:

“Designed to carry travelers in comfort to the most remote corners of the world, Sea Adventurer was built in Yugoslavia in 1976, refurbished in 1999 and had further upgrades in 2002. You will be impressed by this ice-strengthened ship, which carries up to 117 passengers and features a spacious forward lounge and bar, window-lined dining room and promenades.”

Ship Specifications:

Staff and Crew: 72

Guests: 117

57 outside cabins with exterior views and en-suite facilities, TV and DVD player in every cabin

Lifeboats: 4 partially enclosed

Length: 101.1 meters

Breadth: 16.2 meters

Draft: 4.5 meters

Propulsion: Diesel Twin Engines - 5,200 horsepower.

Ice Class: 1A

Cruising Speed: 12 knots in open water 

Activities: 

•Zodiac Cruising (included)

•Hiking & snowshoeing (included)

•Optional kayaking (additional charge)

•Camping using high-quality REI camping equipment (additional charge) 

Zodiacs:

“During the expedition, you will visit remote and isolated sites that are accessible only by Zodiac landing craft. These large, heavy-duty inflatable vessels are extremely safe and were specially designed for expedition work. Zodiacs are the workhorses of polar expeditions. They are used for transferring you ashore, transporting your luggage when necessary and for taking you ocean-level cruising among icebergs, whales and seabird colonies.

Separate air compartments retain a large reserve of buoyancy even if these sturdy boats are damaged and their flat bottom design permits the craft to land directly onto the cobble and ice-strewn beaches that you will encounter on your Polar expedition. A briefing about these boats will be presented before your first landing, which will include tips for you on the best way to enter and exit a Zodiac. Wearing your warm rubber boots, you can expect to walk through shallow water on most of your Zodiac excursions.

We use Mark V HD (heavy duty) Zodiacs for landings and cruising, each has a maximum capacity of a Mark V of 15 people; however, for your comfort we generally cruise with only 10 people in a Zodiac.”

Procedures for Zodiac Excursions:

• To participate in shore excursions by Zodiac you must attend all Zodiac briefings aboard and ashore.

• You may not board a Zodiac unless you are properly attired.

• Dress in several layers of clothing, topped off with a parka.

• Waterproof pants and warm headgear are necessary.

• Wear the waterproof boots that we loan you over two pairs of socks, when the Expedition Leader informs you that the landing will be wet.

• You must wear a Personal Flotation Device (PDF) over your parka at all times.

• Carry your belongings in a backpack so that both of your hands are free to hold railings and accept assistance when embarking or disembarking the Zodiac.

• All electronic and valuable personal equipment like cameras, video cameras and binoculars should be packed in waterproof bags and carried in your backpack.

• You may not smoke in a Zodiac or when ashore.

• Accept assistance when embarking and disembarking, using the sailor’s grip, which will be demonstrated at your first briefing.

• While the Zodiac is in motion, you must remain seated with your feet on the deck.

• Do not attempt to stand unless the Zodiac driver has given you permission to do so.

• Keep your body, arms and hands inside the Zodiac to avoid injuries.

• You can make a stable platform for photography while in the Zodiac by kneeling on the floor with your elbows on the pontoon.

• Other guests are eager to take photographs too, please make way for them, when you have taken your photos.

• When you arrive at the landing, remain seated until the driver instructs you to disembark.

• Approach the Zodiac only from the sides.

Ice Class:

Ships with an Ice Class have a strengthened hull to enable them to navigate through sea ice.

1a: The American Bureau of Shipping has a system of ice classes which includes classes A5 through A0; B0, C0, and D0. A5 class is the strongest built of the classes, with D0 being the weakest. All other major classification societies have a similar system of ice classes, and converting between ice classes is relatively easy. In most cases only the names of the classes are changed and the specifics of the Arctic class are identical. ABS Class A5 is the only Arctic Class that may act independently in extreme Arctic waters with no limitations. Other classes are subject to limitations on time of year, required escort (always with a vessel of higher ice class) and ice conditions.

Not all ships are built to an ice class. Building a ship to an ice class means that the hull must be thicker, and more scantlings (aggregate of girders, beams, and bulkheads resulting in stronger structural integrity) must be in place. Sea chests (openings in the hull for seawater intake) may need to be arranged differently depending on the class. Sea bays may also be required to ensure that the sea chest does not become blocked with ice. Most of the stronger classes require several forms of rudder and propeller protection. Two rudder pintles are usually required, and strengthened propeller tips are often required in the stronger ice classes. More watertight bulkheads, in addition to those required by a ship's normal class, are usually required. In addition, heating arrangements for fuel tanks, ballast tanks, and other tanks vital to the ship's operation may also be required depending on the class.

Well, that was probably way more information than anyone wanted to read, but if anyone has anyone has any questions I'll be glad to answer. Like Africa on our return I'll update what I felt we would have done differently.

My next post will have our schedule of what we are doing.