Estancia Santa Susana - Argentina

December 16

Today was our day to experience a day at an Estancia. Many reviews debated which type is best to go see; real working farms or the touristy ones with shows, food and activities. Well, we ARE tourists and I chose one that got good reviews, but is very touristy. For a return visit it would be a nice day out to see a real working farm.

Here is a description of the tour:

“Join the Gaucho Celebration at the Estancia Santa Susana, a typical gaucho ranch located in the district of Campana, just an hour from Buenos Aires. The Estancia's 1200 hectares (2965 acres) are dedicated to agricultural activities and have been a popular tourist destination near Buenos Aires for the last 20 years. Experience the genuine gaucho lifestyle, Argentinean folklore and learn how the Gauchos (Argentinean cowboys) - who make up the majority of the country’s rural population - make a living from hunting and herding cows.

During this full day tour you will have the most authentic gaucho experience on the Santa Susana Estancia. Enjoy horse riding or a trip on a horse drawn carriage and be amazed by the vast flatlands that surround Buenos Aires. This expansive area is known as the Pampas and makes you feel like you’re in the middle of nowhere, as the endless beautiful landscapes stretch out to the horizon.

Throughout this Gaucho day trip you will learn about the true traditions of the cowboys and their remarkable gaucho skills whilst enjoying a stunning folkloric performance of typical gaucho dances, Tango and other traditional rhythms. One of the highlights of the day is the authentic, delicious, full gaucho barbecue that includes the best Argentine beef, salads, drinks and as much quality Argentinean wine as you can enjoy!”

We were given a pickup time of 9:30 and that came and went and we were getting quite concerned that we might need a “plan B”. The hotel staff was trying to find out what was going on when the guide showed up at like 10:15. Turns out that we were the last hotel stop. A time range would have been a better way to tell people so they don’t worry. Greg had time to take a few photos in front of our hotel while we were waiting:

 school kids lining up to visit the cemetery

White-winged Black-Tyrants

The guide kept everyone entertained on the bus ride explaining various things we drove by and we passed around various items to examine. We passed around mate cups, the “poncho” and the boleadoras which are three leather bound rocks tied together with approximately three feet long leather straps. One of the women on the bus cupped the balls in her hand as they were passed to her and we all cracked up.

 photos taken from the bus window

 a tourist volunteered to display some items



 he put on the poncho and held the balls

 Greg holding the balls

 Greg showing the mate cups

 futbol stadium from bus window

arrival at the estancia

Despite the huge number of people the dining area could accommodate, there were just a few of us there and we enjoyed the day immensely. It was a nice drive through the countryside to get there. We dropped off a few people at a local zoo and the rest of us were taken to the estancia. We were greeted by an older gaucho that kissed all the ladies as they exited the bus. What a charmer!

 very tasty empanadas

 

We were greeted with huge tasty empanadas and cold drinks as we approached the main area. We were given a short tour so we knew where everything was and then left on our own to explore the original home there, take a horseback ride around the ranch or just relax under a shade tree. Lots of birds there. We saw parrots and a ton of Caracara and a few other birds on the grounds. The horse ride was fun. We aren't "horse people", but have done a few tourist horse rides before.

 furniture made out of bones

 dining hall

 meats on the grill

 resident cat

 buggy ride

 horse stable

 Rufous Hornero is the national bird of Argentina

Chimango Caracara 

 Chimango Caracara

 waiting for everyone to saddle up

 my horse

 Greg waiting for the rest to saddle up

 the lead horse is ready to go......

 off we go!

 Greg waiting to dismount

Monk Parakeet 

 orchids

 touring the family home

 Saffron or Grassland Yellow Finch

 Chimango Caracara 

 

Then they rang the dinner bell and we came in for lunch. The gauchos came around with various salads served family style for the table and then came around with platters of meats cooked on their grills. There was beef, pork, chicken and blood and other sausages. There were tons of salads and side dishes which were all pretty good. The beef was huge and plentiful, but probably not the best quality around. The lomo (tenderloin) was served last and was the best.

Then the show started and there were various folkloric dances and the tango was performed. Then, the Gaucho did the dance with the balls which was really astounding.

 he swings the balls so close to his ears that it brushes his hair back

 Dessert was served and then we were taken outside for the famous “ring race”. One gaucho in particular was quite good at getting the lance through the small ring as he galloped his horse. After getting the ring he then chose a lady from the crowd to accept the ring and you had to accept his kiss on the cheek. He had presented quite a few as he was the best at getting the ring. There was a group of young ladies there and he presented several to them. One, he wipes his mouth on his sleeve and kisses her on the mouth.



I wasn’t paying attention when he went to present one ring when Greg nudges me and I look up and see the gaucho sitting on the horse waiting for me to get up and accept the ring. So, I jumped up and got my ring and my kiss. I’m pretty sure that makes me engaged to him in Argentina. Ha ha. Greg said he winked at him before and after the kiss.



the ring is about the size of my thumb

Then he motioned for one of the young ladies to come get on the back of the horse with him and she jumped up and got galloped around the ring. Then, he motioned for another one to come up and he took her around the ring, but half way through he acts like he’s going to ride off with her. I don’t know how long the riding and kissing went on as it was time to head back to the city.

Guira Cuckoo

 



We had an early dinner since we need to be up in the middle of the night for our flight to Ushuaia. Originally it was scheduled for 5:35 in the morning and then it got moved even earlier to 4:40. We were still stuffed from lunch so we went to the mall just a half block away and split a sandwich and stopped for ice cream on the way back to the hotel. All too soon it was time to get up for our 2:00 AM pickup for our flight. UGH!

Quark includes 1 night prior to the expedition as part of the “package” in Ushuaia. We added 1 more night to be on the safe side. Smaller Latin American airlines are notorious for canceling flights, so we didn’t want to risk it. There was a later flight, but if it didn’t go, then we had to wait until the next day.