Monday, January 19, 2015

Amazon Itinerary - Manaus, Brazil

We booked the river cruise through Nature Expeditions International (NEI). Michelle has been very responsive and helpful in organizing everything. http://www.naturexp.com/destinations/desti_centralnsouthamerica.html#amazon

We will spend 7 nights aboard the M/Y Tucano (Motor Yacht Tucano), a river boat with 3 decks and 9 cabins. There are lots of open and closed observation areas with ample windows to watch the jungle in hopes of seeing birds, reptiles and mammals.

This is expedition cruising and not a “normal” cruise. No shows or dressing up, just nature and a lovely boat to experience it from. There are up to 4 opportunities a day for excursions which include motor launches on narrow waterways, walks in the jungle, fishing for piranha, swimming, visiting remote villages and just watching the jungle as we float by. Hoping to see lots of pretty birds, monkeys, caiman, pink river dolphins and if we get lucky some of the cats. 
 
Here is our proposed itinerary, which can vary based on water levels and other factors:
January 22: Our flight to Manaus, Brazil leaves at 3:55 pm and we are using Panama Road Runner to drive us to the airport. They are picking us up at 11:00 and we will eat lunch at the airport. Our flight arrives in Manaus at 8:45 pm and we a transfer arranged to meet us and drive us to the Park Suites Hotel. It’s about a 4 hour flight. (1 hour time difference)
January 23: We have a free day on our own. We plan on visiting a Rubber Plantation (recreation), a local zoo and a botanical garden. We are looking forward to some Brazilian food. We plan on trying a Churrascaria, empanadas and local fish and other specialties.
January 24: We will walk the short distance to the pier to the M/Y Tucano. “This morning we embark and voyage north on the Negro River, into the Anavilhanas Archipelago, to the Apua River. From the observation deck you will see the magnificent tangle of vegetation at the water’s edge
Our first excursion is by expedition launch into forest flooded by the ink-black water of the Rio Negro. This low and dense forest is called Igapó, and is remarkable for the fantastic diversity of flora and fauna.
By mid-afternoon, the ship will enter a wilderness area far away from settlement. Both shores will be covered by dense rainforest where all of the beasts for which the Amazon is famous still roam. The top observation deck is an excellent place to view the endemic wildlife including the elusive pink river dolphin and a large collection of exotic birds. Along the way, you’ll be treated to magnificent forest vistas.
In the late afternoon, you’ll have the opportunity to explore a small stream on one of the boat’s launches in search of wildlife and also to swim in some of the world’s most clean and refreshing water.”
January 25: “Early this morning you’ll explore the rainforest along the water's edge in one of the launches. You will most likely hear a serenade of toucans along with many other kinds of birds. With luck, you may even see howler monkeys.
After breakfast, you may enjoy a walk in the forest where you’ll get an up-close immersion in Amazon ecology. Around midday, return to the boat and continue cruising, perhaps stopping at a place to swim. Later you can explore the forest by boat launch while listening to the sunset chorus of birds and frogs.”
January 26: “This morning there will be an early exploration of the waking forest. On your forest walk, keep your eyes open for monkeys. Then return to the ship for breakfast followed by either a walk or an excursion. You’ll continue on the cruise. Then you’ll enjoy an afternoon excursion in one of the boat launches. Tonight, you will travel a bit more, as you marvel at the night sky crowded with stars.” 
January 27: “After our two morning excursions, you’ll navigate along the heavily forested shore, scouting for wildlife. You may stop for a visit at a settler’s home carved out of the forest. The thatched huts and the kindness of the settlers conceal an amazingly complex way of life based on a centuries old tradition of hospitality. These personal visits with families are often the most memorable points of the trip for many travelers.
In the early afternoon we will be near an extraordinary river called the Rio Jauaperi. Here you will see a kind of forest known as the varzea. Scout along the shoreline for some of the unusual creatures found only in this unique environment. Weather permitting; you’ll have the opportunity for an evening excursion to observe nocturnal wildlife.”
January 28:  “Today you depart the Rio Jauaperi and for the next two days proceed downstream on the Rio Negro exploring a new collection of rainforest habitats. In the daytime you will continue to scout in the launches, walk in the forest, and at night, hunt for nocturnal wildlife.”
January 29: “Today, after a walk in the forest, you’ll cross to the other side of the Rio Negro. You’ll stop at the large boat-building village of Novo Airao. Enjoy a walk through the town’s streets where you can observe a 19th century way of life that thrives in this remote corner of the globe. During the night, you will arrive near the confluence of the Amazon and Negro Rivers. Gliding through the starry darkness, you may decide to sample a “Caipirinha,” the national drink of Brazil, as you absorb this unique environment.”
January 30: “This morning you can explore the Lago Janauari Ecological Park where the thick brown water of the Amazon flows swiftly through the forest.  This flora and fauna in this area is noticeably diverse and it is a very good place to observe wildlife.
During lunch, the boat will get underway en route to the surrealistic “Wedding of the Waters” (Econtra das Aguas), where the coffee-brown Amazon and the inky-black Rio Negro meet and flow side by side for miles before intermingling. In the afternoon, enjoy an excursion exploring a hidden stream to try to see more of the Amazon’s beautiful and bizarre creatures. Evening return to Manaus and overnight on the boat.”
January 31: “In the morning, you’ll disembark the Tucano (7:00A) at the Tropical Hotel.  After disembarking you'll enjoy a half-day small group tour of Manaus, departing from the Tropical Manaus hotel (7:30am – 11:30am).  Highlights of your tour will include the opulent Opera House and the local markets.  After the tour you will enjoy a private transfer back to the Tropical Manaus.” We will have the rest of the day and night on our own to see anything else we didn’t see on the first free day. Our flight leaves at 3:40 in the morning, yes you read that right. (it's the only flight there is)
February 1: We have a private transfer set up for a midnight pickup from the lobby of the Park Suites Hotel. We debated getting a room for the night, and we may regret it, but for just a few hours it didn’t make sense. We arrive back in Panama at 6:23a and we have arranged for Panama Road Runner to pick us up and bring us home.
We are excited and eager to experience the Amazon!

January 1 to 21

On January 6, Three Kings Day, or Dia de los Reyes Magos, is celebrated as part of the Epiphany tradition. It’s the day where the Three Magi came and gave the Christ child presents of gold, frankincense and myrrh.  Panamanians also celebrate Christmas, but presents are given for Kings Day as well.

CASA does a wonderful thing for a local school (handicapped kids and adults) where they put together 80 bags of “staples” and deliver them. This year it was done on January 11 on a Sunday so the working families could attend with the children. The bags are identical and are filled with dry rice, dried beans, a canned ham, sardines, lentils, spaghetti, pasta sauce, sugar, spices, flour, oil, toilet paper etc.
On January 8 after our regular CASA meeting a bunch of us stayed to help decorate crowns to be given out on Sunday. The next day 4 people did an assembly line to fill the bags. Sunday a few of us gathered where the bags were stored and filled our cars with the bags and caravanned to San Carlos.
 Louise showing the contents of the bags
 CASA members
 decorating the crowns
 
There was also another Panamanian holiday this month. Martyrs' Day is a Panamanian holiday which commemorates the January 9, 1964 riots over sovereignty of the Panama Canal Zone. The riot started after a Panamanian flag was torn during conflict between Panamanian students and Canal Zone Police officers, over the right of the Panamanian flag to be flown alongside the U.S. flag. U.S. Army units became involved in suppressing the violence after Canal Zone police were overwhelmed, and after three days of fighting, about 21 Panamanians and four U.S. soldiers were killed. The incident is considered to be a significant factor in the U.S. decision to transfer control of the Canal Zone to Panama through the 1977 Torrijos–Carter Treaties.
January 11 we met at the office of the Equestrian Club where the bags were waiting to be loaded into vehicles. About 6 cars of us caravanned to the San Carlos area to Maribel’s house where the event was held. We unloaded bags and some started putting air in balloons and putting them on sticks for the children. There was a great local band that played. Families started to arrive and we put crowns on them (and the adults). The strength of these families truly amazes me. We handed out balloons to those who wanted them. A few said “no, mucho miedo” (very afraid) so we just passed them up. Then ice cream arrived and they all got ice cream cones. Clyde took photos of all of the kids and they were printed and given to them. They seem to really love that. Betty was manning the printer and did a fine job. Then we started handing out plates of food. We were instructed to make sure all the kids got meals and then adults if there was enough. Many just covered them with foil to take home. There were Panamanian ladies piling the food on the plates. It’s not common to see inside a Panamanian’s home and it was a treat to be invited inside Maribel’s house since they were plating the food in the back yard and we had to walk through the house to get there. The plates were loaded with a huge cup of yellow rice, a small piece of chicken, an empanada, potato salad, grapes and a piece of cake. They were all so polite and smiled and said “gracias”. We replied “de nada”. Drinks were also passed out. After all was passed out, we got to have a plate of food as well. I felt guilty eating food that you know is very hard to come by for these people. The kids have various physical and or mental handicaps. Some walked in, some in wheelchairs and a few were carried in as they didn’t have wheelchairs. It really tugs at your heart strings. Terry and Joanne dressed as elves and danced with a few that wanted to. After everyone had eaten, they started to pass out the gift bags and each child got a wrapped present. Most took the gifts home to open. I was trying to picture children in the States, they probably would have torn right into the wrapped gifts. The water had run out in the jug that was set out and one little boy comes to me and asks in Spanish if he could please have a little water. We were out of cups and I went to the “gringo” cooler and got him a cold bottle of water.
 Terry, Louise & Joanne
 Maribel
 band played
 some of the bags
 Greg on balloon duty
 me distributing plates of food
 Betty printing the photos of the kids




 
I hope the families had as much fun as we did. It really was an amazing experience to participate in. Louise & Barry and Terry & Clyde of CASA really put in a lot of time and effort into this project.
Clyde took a lot of photos of the kids and has put a couple of presentations out on youtube of the event. These are the photos that were printed and given to the families:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gl7M-Py_iHE&feature=youtu.be
In the continuing saga of my quest to get malaria meds from Canada; since it’d been about 6 weeks I called again to see what can be done since I never received them. They don’t use tracking numbers. This time despite everything I was told in the past the person said I should have received it in 2 weeks. (not 4 to 6) She read back the address it was mailed to and it did not include the most important part that routes it here to Panama from Miami. It was included when we ordered the meds and was confirmed when they emailed for us to call and verify all the information was correct before they mailed them. So, somewhere after that it got left off the address. So, they gave me 2 options, they could refund our money or reship them once I emailed them our correct address. They made it clear it was our fault we didn’t give them the correct address. I said I have the original forms we emailed that proves we provided them the correct address and they said it didn’t matter there was no way they would expedite the shipment. (blamed it on customs in Canada). I was told by the first person that they couldn’t ship Greg’s and mine in the same package. This person said they were shipped together.
On a lark I emailed the MBE here to tell them about the packages that didn’t have the whole address on them and was there a way to track them down in Miami. They found them within 5 minutes of checking and put the correct info on them and they told me they should be here by the end of next week. They were in 2 shipments that arrived a few days apart. So hopefully I will get them in time and I won’t react to them.
Jan 16 we had a wonderful evening out with good friends Jennifer and Jim and Mary and Adam and we had dinner at a fantastic restaurant Los Camisones. Great food and great company. They had the most delightful flaming crepes for dessert. We will definitely go back there. Next time I will order something in a garlic sauce since every time a plate was delivered to another table it smelled heavenly.
 Los Camisones
Crepes Suzette
I did get the malaria meds and tested them for 2 days now. Nothing too weird happened while on them, so hopefully I won’t have problems taking them longer term. I’m just one of those people that react to waaaay more meds than I should. Not sure if the 2nd shipment will show up.
There haven’t been a lot of birds in the woods this time of year, but we did finally see a very rare bird at the Malibu Pond in Gorgona. There have been 2 Whistling Herons spotted there and they normally only live in South America. We had gone several times and didn’t see them. Finally, we got to see them. Greg got a few shots which aren’t bad considering how far away we were. Yes, it's a dorky looking bird.....
 Whistling Heron

 
immature Wattled Jacana
 

 female Baltimore Oriole bathing in mud puddle in the road

pretty butterfly
We had looked for a White Pelican in the city at the mudflats behind the craft museum. A couple of other herons were spotted there that we have not seen before, but we saw neither on that trip.





 
We saw a cool snake in the woods. It’s a Brown Vine Snake and it really was hard to tell it from the roots and vines. It was really pencil thin, but around 4 feet long. The interesting thing about it was its’ ability to suspend themselves seemingly in midair. They can hold themselves straight up and stretch out horizontally. They aren’t harmful to humans, their venom only causes intense itching.   
 Brown Vine Snake

 
Here are a few birds on the beach

 

I’m pretty sure we will not have internet to keep up the blog on the Amazon River, so I will give you our proposed itinerary in my next post before we go and will update the blog and photos after we get back.

Thursday, January 1, 2015

December 20 to December 31

Hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas and a fun New Year’s Eve.

Some kids from the neighborhood church came to the lobby of our building and performed Christmas carols. It was really nice and it was a shame only about 6 people showed up to see them. They were adorable. A lady from Venezuela, Lucilia invited us or we wouldn’t have known about it. We see her on the beach sometimes and she invited us. There were refreshments for the kids after they finished.




 
tree in our lobby
On the 20th we attended the CASA Christmas Party held at Coronado Golf. There were 203 people there and the food was good and the company of friends at our table really made the night. It was a different vibe from last year. Last year there was better music and lots of people danced. This year, most of us were asking each other what kind of music is THAT? So, there wasn’t a lot of dancing and people seemed to leave early. We had good company at our table so we stayed and talked for a long time. Jim and Jennifer’s daughter Holly was visiting as was Adam and Mary’s daughter Jennifer. The other couple at our table does a lot of community things.
 Holly, Jim & Jennifer
 Adam, Mary & Jennifer
 Brian, Barbara & Adam
 group photos





 
The “highlight” was Jim and Jennifer had just returned from the States and brought me a replacement thermos for the one I have dropped a few too many times. Since ice melts instantly in my sodas at Picasso’s, I bring the thermos with ice and it keeps everything cold and not melted. They liked mine and bought 1 for each of them and all 3 of us take them. I hadn’t been able to find one here so it was a wonderful and thoughtful surprise. The bag also came with home-made amaretto. Yum!
 
The day after the party I got some weird 24 hour type bug. It’s been a long time since I have been that sick. Luckily, it only lasted 24 hours and a day of just being wiped out and I was back to normal. Phew! (no photos of that....and you're welcome!)
We were invited to Jill & Don’s for Christmas breakfast at 10:00. I cooked our Christmas dinner on the 24th since the breakfast was on the 25th and then we just reheated leftovers later in the day. I made my usual Bananas Foster French Toast. Yum! It’s probably the “last” holiday dinner I will ever prepare so the work was worth it. (we figure we won’t do that much work in an RV)
 Banana's Foster French Toast

 it was a pretty tasty bird
our tree
Here are a few shots from the Christmas breakfast at Jill & Don’s. They have a lovely apartment and the food was very good and lots of it. Lots of drinks. Did I mention it was 10:00 in the morning? LOL We had a few mimosas. The couple that we met at last year’s Christmas party was there and we spent most of the time talking with them. They are also pretty addicted to travel so we talked about where we have been and where we are going next. They are headed to the Greek Isles next. She has had a tough year as her daughter committed suicide recently and she said this was the first time she had been “social” since. They also have been taking care of their 14 year old granddaughter. It was nice to see them again.
 potatoes, eggs, sausage, biscuits and gravy

 Trish & John brought Crème Brule French Toast

 Greg & I in line
 Mack, Cat & Jill
 Bruce & Judy





 Jill being silly
 Jill being Jill
Sharon finally relaxing
Christmas Eve night we were treated to fireworks set off about 2 houses down on the beach. We could see them right outside our balcony window.
Muñecas are life-size dolls that people make and put in front of their houses and alongside the highways. There is often a theme, such as political figures, entertainment figures, ex-husbands or wives or themselves as a symbol of out with the old and in with the new.
Muñeca Burning is a New Year’s Tradition in Panama. Panamanians begin to papier-mâché their muñecas in early December. The muñecas are stuffed with paper and firecrackers, and they are lit ablaze on New Year’s Eve usually in a bonfire or tied to a stake and burned, ultimately burned in effigy on New Year’s Eve at midnight. Other traditions include eating 12 grapes and making 12 wishes at each stroke of midnight for prosperity. Here are some we saw driving around our area:








Yard work here is either done with a weedwhacker or a machete, this is a clever ad for a guy that is offering his services. His name and phone number is on his pocket. 
 
Many paper lanterns were released over the ocean as well. They are basically a small hot air balloon made of paper with an opening at the bottom where a small fire is suspended. It was windier this year and a few had some issues until they found the right breeze to lift it out to sea.
 lanterns

 bonfire on the beach
 
New Year’s Eve on the rooftop was quite different this year. Last year it was packed from around 5:30 on with lots of music and people. This year it was very quiet up there until 10:30 or 11:00. There was a church service at 8:30 in the enclosed room, but most didn’t stay after it was over. The condo association (new management this year) didn’t do anything downstairs like last year. They had a party with food and music and fireworks that made it extra amazing since on the 24th floor they went off right in our faces. However, the fireworks did not disappoint this year all up and down the coastline and all over the residential areas. Fireworks here are legal and they are of the quality you would normally see at a 4th of July celebration in the States. You could hear people all around us remarking they had never seen such display. A few go off early in the evening (6:00 on) and of course ramp up as midnight approaches. They finally died down around 1:30 and we came back downstairs and went to bed. 
 moon on New Year's Eve
 the beach as it got dark















 

Hard to believe we will be in Antarctica this time next year. Not sure how penguins celebrate…ha ha.ied to the stop sign
 
The hikes in “our woods” have been pretty quiet. However, we did catch a glimpse of a Hooded Warbler. Not of interest to anyone except fellow birders. They aren’t supposed to live here and we got a “bad” shot, but good enough to identify it. Greg reported it to ebirds and they questioned it, but after he sent the photo to them, they published it and on the daily “rare bird alert” it was sited with location and his name. So, 2 days in a row we spotted a new bird. The other one was a Greenish Elaenia. Not rare, but it was the first we saw it well enough to determine without a doubt what it was.
Hooded Warbler
 Greenish Elaenia
 sunrise

butterfly on the trail

We are 3 weeks away from our Amazon River Cruise. Time to start pulling together our packing strategy. I’m still waiting for the malaria meds to arrive from Canada. Hopefully, it gets here in time. 

I’ll have more on our itinerary in my next post before we go. We probably won't have internet access on the riverboat, so will update and post photos when we get back.and the muñeco. Everyone else was also getting their pictures taken with it both before and after it was tied to the stop sign.

Until next time......
 

The sign above the mañeco thanking it for taking all the bad things