Sunday, February 8, 2015

Our Amazon Journey Begins!

January 22 we were picked up by Penny with Panama Road Runner for the ride to the airport. We “know” Penny and her husband Dave and their daughter Candace (it’s a small community here). Penny was fun to talk to and we arrived in plenty of time to grab some lunch at the airport and check in for our flight.

After about a 4 hour flight we arrived in Manaus, Brazil and we collected our luggage and breezed through customs and immigration. We exited to see crowds of people and we could hear chanting in the distance. Our driver was waiting for us with our names on a sign. He had us follow another guy while he waited for another person on our flight to arrive. The chanting turned out to be the futbol team from Sao Paolo. The lady we were waiting for was found and we got in the van for the short ride to the hotel. The lady was an 87 year old Dutch woman who has been living in Guatemala for 35 years. She was staying at the Tropical Manaus and we were staying at the Park Suites Hotel. (on the same property) As it turned out she was on our cruise.
 fans of the Sao Paulo Futbol team
 
We checked in and were shown to our room which turned out to have a river view. We unpacked a bit and then went to bed. Next morning after breakfast we went to check out the Tropical Hotel since that is where we were to meet the group the next morning. (In hindsight it would have been more convenient to stay there, but our travel agent steered us away from it. Though it was just a short walk to it)
our hotel room
We had a day on our own and had a couple of things planned to do if the weather would have cooperated. We got directions to walk to the Public Boat Dock at Marina Davi. In the parking lot of the Tropical Hotel there were a lot of Yellow-rumped Caciques that were nesting. On the walk to the marina we spotted a few different types of birds. It was sprinkling and we hoped the rain would stay away.
Yellow-rumped Cacique

 market area at Port Davi

 Port Davi

 speed boat
 inside the speed boat
view our of the back window
Portuguese is spoken in Brazil and no one at the marina spoke much or any English. I showed the guy that approached us the paper I brought to show them where we wanted to go and he showed us which boat and said to wait less than a half hour to board. We sat down and it started to rain. We were partially covered, but it was blowing in on us. A guy on another bench motioned for us to sit with him. We did and thanked him in Portuguese (obrigado). He also let us know when our boat was loading and motioned for us to go. There were only locals on the water taxi and had it not been pouring rain, the scenery would have been beautiful! The boat took about 40 minutes with a couple of stops to let people off. Then, we arrived at Museu do Seringal Vila Paraiso (Recreation of a Rubber Plantation). It was a wet and muddy walk and we had started to head to a different building when someone called and motioned us to the correct building.









 sap used to make rubber
 you can see the wet muddy mess.....
 bathing room
 
The guide for the museum greeted us and asked if we spoke Portuguese, we said no, do you speak English? She said no. We asked if she spoke Spanish. She said she knew some Spanish and we said that would work. She really was very pleasant and she truly wanted to make sure we understood what she was showing us. Her Spanish was quite good and the tour was interesting. It would have been more pleasant if it wasn’t raining. After the tour they radioed for a water taxi and we were taken back to the Marina. It was lunch time and we had hoped to find a restaurant or food stand along the riverfront, but it was still raining pretty hard so we decided to have lunch at the Tropical Hotel. It was a mediocre buffet and cost around $60.
Greg had a bit of a cold and we tried to find a mini mart or pharmacy, and walked along the river front trying to find one. No luck. We also wanted to pick up some diet Coke to bring on board since the boat said there would only be a limited selection and to bring anything if you wanted it.
 view of our hotel from the beach
 Ponta Negra beach area

 Rio Negro Bridge

 Yellow-browed Sparrow
 Orange-fronted Yellow-finch
 Orange-fronted Yellow-finches (the 2 at the bottom seemed to be kissing
female Orange-fronted Finch
Blue-gray Tanager (Southern Amazonian form)
 Blue Dacnis
Canary-winged Parakeets
The rain was slowing a bit and by the time we got back to the Tropical Hotel it was barely dripping. They have a small zoo there and we got tickets and walked around. The concierge shorted us about $10 Real, but we didn't realize it until we had walked away. After that we walked back to our hotel and killed a couple of hours in the room until it was time to grab a cab to Churrascaria Bufalo for dinner.
 Jaguar


 Coatimundi
 Capybara
 Blue & Yellow Macaws
 Scarlet Macaws

 Collared Peccary
 Red Howler Monkey
 Festive Parrot
Scarlet Macaws
Churrascaria Bufalo is a traditional style Brazilian Churrascaria where the waiters are dressed as Gauchos and there are discs on the table to signal them when you are ready to eat. (red for no and green for yes, bring more meat!) There is a huge salad bar and they also come around with appetizers and breads & cheeses. When you are ready for the main courses you flip your disc over from red to green and they start bringing these huge skewers of meats. If you want that kind they will carve you off some. They had pork sausages, chicken sausages, chicken hearts, pork loin, lamb and about every cut of beef you could imagine. They also came around with platters of fish. The highlight was the grilled pineapple. It was like caramelized and yummy. Our waiter Francisco cuts off slices of pineapple feeding you the first bite and then he cuts it all up for you and then feeds you the last bite before he leaves you to eat the rest. There is a similar restaurant on I-Drive in Orlando called Texas de Brazil. (Dad, you might remember we took you there on one of your visits) Honestly, I thought their meats were better, but there were some things better at this one. Our cab driver either waited or came back for us and drove us back to the hotel, where we packed up and went to bed since we needed to be up at 5:00.




 Francisco was our waitor
 He cuts the grilled pineapple
 and feed you the first bite
he cut me a really large piece
After haggling with the front desk that we were charged for 6 large waters and we only had 4 small bottles, we ate a quick breakfast and walked to the other hotel to meet the fellow passengers and our guides for the cruise.
It was a nice group of people and we all chatted while we waited. Then the guides introduced themselves and gathered our luggage and we all walked to the boat dock. At first glance of the boat (we had seen her float by at breakfast), I thought to myself “What the hell did I get us into?” We boarded 2 wide bottomed motorized canoes and were transferred to the M/Y Tucano. We went to the top deck and waited for everyone to be transported and the luggage to get on board and then they did an introduction and a briefing. We were taken one couple at a time to our cabins after collecting our luggage. It started to rain and we were moved to the dining room downstairs. It was discovered that one couple was missing a backpack and the boat turned around to go get it. 
 our first look at M/Y Tucano
canoes waiting to transport us to the boat 
 luggage being transported
 bananas for the week
 Greg in the hats they gave us
 introducing the crew
 our hats (Cave et Aude means Watch & Listen or Be Careful & Dare)
 lifeboat drill
 
The rooms make regular cruise ship cabins seem huge. There are no closets and our things just sat on shelves. After settling in we all met for another briefing in the dining room which seemed to go on forever. It was broken up by a lifeboat drill, but we had to go back and finish up. At one point it cleared up and we hoped we could enjoy that, but by the time he was finished it was pouring again.
 our cabin


 the hall on our deck
 steps to go to top deck and another set went to the lower deck
 the bridge
 
One of the guides’ backpacks with all needed paperwork, a large sum of money and camera etc. was missing and he had gone back to see if he could get it and meet up with us at some point. He traveled all day and returned the next day. His backpack was not found.
There were 13 passengers on board. The 87 year old woman from Holland that has lived in Guatemala for many years and she was joined by her son who still lives in Holland, but he lost his wife to cancer about 6 months ago and is on a 7 month journey around the world to figure out what he wants to do with the rest of his life. There was a wonderful couple from England, and everyone else was from the States. (Oklahoma, Pennsylvania, Boston) A single lady on sabbatical from where she teaches art is on a journey that next takes her to the Arctic in search of Narwhals. So, a good mix of well-traveled interesting people. We had kind of assumed there would be more birders, but we were the only ones. Everyone else was there for the adventure.
Here is a group photo taken by Betsy & Michael.
 
Bottom row: Klaske, Rob, Joyce, Pat, Joe and guide Souza
Back row: Betsy, Michael, Andrea, Greg, Annette, Patty, Fred, Pete, guide Edi and the boat captain
We had our first excursion at 4:00 and the rain had stopped and it was perfect weather.
Instead of a day by day review of this trip I will split it into the 4 types of excursions. There was a basic rhythm each day on this trip.
We are up at around 5:15 and departed about 5:40 for a motor launch. (they knocked on your door for your wake up call.) For morning motor launches we dressed in shorts and water shoes. Often boarding in the dark and watching the sunrise and the rain forest to come alive. There was coffee and tea available and porridge if anyone wanted it. We returned around 8:00 and had a hearty breakfast. We always had scrambled eggs, fresh fruits, a freshly baked cake that varied every day as well as other things to go along with breakfast. Then, we had some free time until 10:00. Twice during the trip the option to kayak could replace the motor launch.
Around 10:00 we got on the motor launch to take us to land for a forest walk for a couple hours. They provided gaiters (leather things to wrap around your lower legs) and we were to wear long sleeved shirts and long pants. (the lightweight SPF stuff works well) Pants were tucked into our socks and then the gaiters were put on. A nice touch was the frozen towels they handed us after our hot walk in the jungle on the boat ride back to the Tucano. We returned and left our shoes for the crew to clean. Then, we’d take a much needed shower and then have lunch. There was only hot water for a short time each day and it coincided with showering after a forest walk to wash off any possible ticks etc. As a side note, there were 2 shower heads in the shower (both were river water) and one was room temperature (cool/warm) that you could use any time of the day and the other is pressurized and provided hot water for a short time. There often were times when neither provided water (just randomly, perhaps when the boat tilted or something) and it seemed just as you shampooed your hair and lathered your body it would stop. So, I could be heard saying “Seriously???” It eventually came back and you could finish. Because the water was river water, we used bottled water to brush our teeth. Lunch was usually fish or chicken and always rice and different types of beans. Then we had time off until the afternoon motor launch. A good time to wash out any clothes to be hung upstairs on the lines and to backup pictures and take some notes on what we had done so far.
Around 4:00 we went for an afternoon motor launch and again we could dress in shorts and water shoes. Upon our return appetizers were served on the top deck of the boat and then we had dinner. Dinner was usually hearty as well.
After dinner we sometimes had an evening motor launch. The evening motor launch required long sleeved pants and shirts again with closed toed shoes. The guides used a spotlight looking for night critters.
For all excursions we carried a waterproof pack with a bottle of water and rain jackets if needed. We did not need them since it was kind enough to rain while we are not on excursions. We also visited a couple of local villages. What a treat! Most of the trip was spent on the Rio Negro and only a short portion was on the actual Amazon.
For the most part the morning and afternoon motor launches had the most wildlife and the night launches were equally interesting. We saw pink river dolphins, gray dolphins, lots of birds (toucans, macaws, parakeets and parrots galore), three toed sloths, Red Howler monkeys, Squirrel monkeys and White-fronted Capuchin monkeys and tarantulas. While we saw a lot, it wasn’t easy getting photos of most of them.
The meals were like Brazilian home cooking. Breakfast always had scrambled eggs, and a different type of cake, meats, cheeses, bread, and always something made of Manioc. For me breakfast was my favorite meal of the day. Lunches were not as exciting to me and the dinners were usually quite good. Desserts were often times an interesting flavor of ice cream or pudding, candied figs or sliced watermelon. We served ourselves from the buffet and were responsible for clearing our plates. Teeny tiny ants often had to be brushed off the plates before we could use them.
The beautiful reflections seen in the inky black water were totally unexpected. Our guides Souza and Edi were superb, and all crew members were as well. It was a wondrous and peaceful trip on the river with no other tourists in sight and only the occasional local boat. The part on the Amazon River was busier but was a nice contrast and not a negative for us.
My next post will be a compilation of the morning motor launches. All of the Picasa Web Albums are day by day.   https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos

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