Lüderitz is a harbor town in the ǁKaras Region of southern
Namibia, lying on one of the least hospitable coasts in Africa. A tobacco
merchant from Germany named Adolf Luderitz developed the area into the main
port for German South West Africa.
The town is known for its German influenced colonial
architecture, including some Art Nouveau work, and for wildlife including
seals, penguins, flamingos and ostriches.
We cleared immigration quickly and were the first people
off the ship. However, I think our guide figured we would take about an hour to
get off as he wasn’t there yet. Another person at the port asked who we were
waiting for and she of course knew him and gave him a call. He had set up 3
vehicles for the now 10 of us. Very comfy ride. It was interesting to hear them
speaking German or Africans. (may have spelled that wrong)
What an unusual and awesome place! It was cool and windy
today especially at Elizabeth Bay. It was downright cold and windy there. It
was our first time here and I booked a Peninsula Tour & Elisabeth Bay Ghost
Town visit. Heinz Manns of Namib Offroad Excursions was very responsive and
helpful. noextours@gmail.com
We were joined today by Cathy & Tom, Stacey &
Wally, Kris & Andrea and John & Toni. Just another awesome day with
friends. We were missing Bob & Phyllis as they are still in Cape Town since
Phyllis is still in the hospital there. Get well soon Phyllis!
Heinz met us and got us situated into 3 vehicles, so we had
plenty of room. Our first stop was at their office to make payment and use
their restrooms.
From there we drove to Elizabeth Bay aka E Bay, a diamond
mine ghost town that spent decades derelict, but after two years of restoration
efforts, the diamond mine is back in operation. It closed again about 4 months
or so ago and is up for sale.
We passed Kolmanskop (the most touristy ghost town) and
entered the forbidden diamond territory (SPERRGEBIET), heading towards
Elizabeth Bay. To visit we had to supply our passport copies well in advance
since it required a permit which Heinz got for us. No alcohol is allowed by
mining law and breathalyzer tests are performed. We were looking forward to
doing that, but Heinz said that now they only have the driver of the vehicle do
that not the tourists. Kolmanskop appeared to be more preserved and Heinz said
it was a bit more of a Disneyland experience.
After about a km past the new E-bay plant, we arrived at
the historic Village of ELIZABETH BAY, which was abandoned in 1935. The remains
of the town and diamond plant were left to the elements, and onslaught of the
Atlantic coast. It was cold and windy out there. We needed our layers for sure.
We did see quite a few Black-backed Jackals on our drive in. They also have
Brown Hyenas, but we only saw fresh tracks.
Heinz pointed out the house where his dad grew up. His dad
never worked in the mine however.
First Heinz drove us quickly around so we could see the
layout for when he explained it all to us later. Then, we got out and were out
of the wind behind a building while he told us all about the mine and the
surrounding buildings. Very photogenic area chock full of history. It reminded
a few of us of visiting ancient ruins or the set of the first Star Wars movie.
He asked how many of us wanted to visit the old diamond plant and of course we
all did. He said to be very careful since it is in disrepair and to not go in
anywhere that you didn’t feel comfortable going.
We drove down there and then got out as Heinz led us
through it explaining what we were seeing. We even went down to the lower level
(only a few of us went down there).
We then had some free time to explore the old houses and
the rest of the area. One house had a nice painting on the wall of palm trees.
The story was that the guy that lived there used that photo of the area to
entice a woman to come visit him there in hopes they could marry, but she took
one look at the harsh living conditions and she did not stay. You could only
imagine this town bustling with activity.
The owners’ house was large and nice, and the small houses
for some of the workers were a decent size, but they had immigrants that had
quarters that were mere prison looking cells no larger than a skinny person to
sleep in and a shared outhouse.
There was one “working” outhouse on the premises and I used
it. It was an outhouse with a toilet seat on it. The door to it was laying on
the ground in front of it. It did have TP however.
I think Heinz saw that a few of us picked up shells or
small rocks and he said the law states that nothing can be taken from there. We
all tossed our finds with the promise that at our next stop we could pick up
all the shells we wanted.
We left there, and Heinz checked us out at the entry/exit
point beside Kolmanskop. From there we did the Peninsula Tour.
I’m not sure of the order of our stops but our tour
included: Radford bay (Flamingos), and the 2nd lagoon towards Grossebucht, Dias
Point, where Bartholomew Dias planted a Padrao in the year 1488, passing bays
like Kleiner Bogenfels, Knochenbucht, Halifax Island (African penguin breeding
colony) and Guano bay.
We drove on the beach and stopped for some photo ops. It
was lunch time and he took us to a spot where we could pick up all the shells
that we wanted to (there were tons and tons of them).
The vehicles were placed so that they could have drinks in
the back of one and the food on the other tailgate. Heinz’ wife had prepared
cheese sandwiches for us and there was fruit. They also served coffee or tea.
It was a great setting amongst the rocks and the surf to eat our simple lunch.
On our way back, we made a detour to Sturmvogelbucht
(Waling Station from 1912) and Griffith bay (rich in bird life), with beautiful
views of Lüderitz.
Now it was time to go back to the ship. I asked Heinz if
there was any place where we could stop to get a token souvenir like a magnet
or something. Being Saturday, nothing was open, but he said near the port there
were a couple of local guys that put out some carved items etc. Some did not
want to stop and demanded to go back to the ship. I do explain to people that
are joining my tours, that I don’t include major shopping stops but I always
make a short stop for those of us that want to grab something. However, they
were insistent that they didn’t want to make a stop despite being told that
their tour organizer wanted the stop.
So, Heinz dropped us and walked us to where the guys were.
It would have been nice if the group could have waited for us, but Heinz drove
them back to the ship and Greg and I had to walk back to the ship. Not sure why
waiting 10 to 15 minutes would have hurt anyone.
Anyway, we were back on board and we got ready for dinner
in the dining room since all aboard was at 3:30.
We knew that a new couple was joining the 4 of us at our
dinner table. Since Cape Town they had been sitting alone since we were on
Safari and Roy & Rondi had gotten back too late from their touring to go.
So, we met the new couple and they said “there really are 4 other people at the
table”.
The entertainment tonight was Branden & James
(Australian cellist & tenor) we have seen them before and they are very
good.
Then back to the cabin to get ready for Walvis Bay, Namibia
tomorrow.
Luderitz, Namibia https://photos.app.goo.gl/cAYpDzKzG8B9gMqg6
I'm loving your commentary of the stops.
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