Friday, March 17, 2017

Elephanta Island & Dharavi Slum - Mumbai, India - March 16

It’s our second time in Mumbai and we saw most of the sights last time, except Elephanta Caves as we were there on a Monday and it’s closed that day. So, I set up a private tour to see that and the Dharavi Community with Mumbai Magic. Mumbai formerly was called Bombay.

We were picked up promptly at the pier by our driver, Rajen and we picked up our guide Pan a few minutes later. We made our way to the Gateway of India to board the public ferry for Elephanta Island. We saw this area on our last visit and the Taj Mahal Hotel is also located across the street. It was about an hour-long ride to the island where 900 people live. We passed many military ships and an island that housed a military building. It was pretty “smoky” out so photos were a bit hazy. Lots of birds were following the boat as the kid that works on the boat feeds them. Greg got some great photos of them. Pan and I talked most of the way out to the island and back.
 sunrise
 sail in





 views from the car


 Gateway to India

 Taj Mahal Hotel

 the ferry port

on the ferry chatting with Pan














 our ship










bathroom on the ferry
Here is some background on Elephanta Island by the tour company:
“Once known as Puri or Gharapuri, Elephanta island was the proud capital of a powerful coastal kingdom. It was named Elephanta by the Portuguese, who took possession of it several centuries later, and found a monolithic stone elephant at the place they first landed.  
Today Elephanta is a World Heritage Site, showcasing legends of Lord Shiva carved in rock cave temples. The cave complex is a collection of shrines, courtyards, inner cells, grand halls and porticos arranged in the splendid symmetry of Indian rock-cut architecture, and filled with exquisite stone sculptures of Hindu Gods and Goddesses.”
Once on the island we got on a small slow train to take us from the ferry to the site. There were a few monkeys there playing. Also, goats and cows. There were vendors set up along the walk to the caves up lots of steps. There were about 100 steps and if anyone found the climb difficult, they could hire a chair-palanquin for around 1200 rupees or so per person.
 approaching Elephanta Island

 getting off the ferry

 the ferry boats
 long pier


here comes the slow train

We ran into Karen & Steve and Julie & Jeff on the same ferry and the same train. We took photos of each other on the train. 
 the foursome
 Pan facing the camera and us turning around
 views from the train
 low tide


 mangroves







 the chairs they will carry you in if you choose not to walk
 goats in the doorway


the walkway up







 entrance to the caves

 inside the main room















 the foursome leaving
 bats









 walking back to the ferry























reminded me of Panama.....
It was a very interesting place to visit. Our only “complaint” was the guides’ ability to manage time. She kept saying we had plenty of time, just relax and go slow. Then, when we got there she wanted to tell us about each thing, but didn’t want us to take photos until after she finished her talk. So, we sat in one place while she told us a lot of history and then went site to site learning about each one. If we tried to take a photo she would stop talking until she had our undivided attention. Then, she sat down and said we could go take photos. (so, we retraced our steps) Now we were running late and she said we didn’t have time for lunch. 
The train was being repaired for the ride back to the ferry, so we walked the relatively short distance. We stopped to get a couple of ice cold diet Cokes to drink on the ferry ride back. 

they were fixing the train
 

 photos on the ferry ride back 

We asked if we could get something quick like samosas and eat them in the car since Dharavi was an hour away. She said that was a good idea and we stopped at a street vendor and we grabbed 2 samosas each, a container of fresh baked chocolate cookies and a couple of sodas for $6.00. The samosas were very good. There was sauce to dip them in, but we didn’t open it as it would have been too messy to eat in the car. 
 inside the car
 lunch
 samosas


 samosas


 on the drive to Dharavi













We stopped at a coffee shop to use their restrooms before starting our walking tour of Dharavi. 


Slum has a bit of a different connotation in the States than it does in most other parts of the world. Many have decided that community is more of an accurate description. The purpose of visiting the slum made famous by the movie “Slum Dog Millionaire” is not voyeuristic to stare at the poor people or “feel sorry” for them. They don’t need anyone’s judgment or pity as they are a thriving and vibrant community of heard working people. They don’t live off of the government and certainly aren’t lazy by any means. 
There is no denying that compared to the poor in say the States or Canada, they appear in far worse shape. Nothing could be further from the truth. There are wealthy people in India and then there are the ones living in tent cities or in shanties alongside of the road (or less). This community is more of a “middle class” between the two. 
Here is a description of the Dharavi tour:
 “Many people know Dharavi as the 'largest slum in Asia', but there is so much more to this historic area of Mumbai than poverty. Dharavi's industries have an annual turnover of approximately US$ 665 million. It’s actually the second largest slum in Asia as the largest is in Pakistan. 
Through our tour visitors experience a wide range of these activities: recycling, pottery-making, embroidery, bakery, soap factory, leather tanning, poppadom-making and many more. Most of these things are created in innovative ways and in very small spaces!
When passing through the residential spaces, you will undoubtedly feel the sense of community spirit that exists in the area. People from all over India live in Dharavi, and this diversity is apparent in the temples, mosques and churches that stand side by side. A tour through Dharavi's narrow alleys is quite an adventure, and you will leave with an enlightened sense of the purpose and determination that exists in the area.”
We stopped to pick up a college student named Furakan that lives in Dharavi to take us on the tour with our guide Pan. He told us all about how the community works so well together and about all of the different industries there. They take great pride in their work and in the community. 
Photography is not allowed and the tours are designed to give you a better understanding of life there. They choose to live there. Our guide said that even those that go to college stay there. 
Living spaces are about the size of a king-sized bed, with multiple people living there. Some have the factories below and they sleep on the second floor. They recycle EVERYTHING! They sort out metals, plastics, computer parts, paper, car parts and more. We saw them making suitcases and backpacks, pottery, sewing and designing clothing. The people there work long and hard hours. They live simply and are very happy. They don’t have stress or care about things like politics and such. They work together and take care of each other. I have to say it was quite inspiring to see how industrious they are. 
There was a bakery there and they were making puff pastry. It smelled and looked really good and the guide asked if wanted to try some. Of course, I said yes! It was so light and flakey. (better than on the ship) Hopefully, we won’t regret eating street food and slum food. (we didn't)

 views from the bridge
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
these young men asked to have their photos taken
 

their shop

I did get a couple of photos of some of the local kitties. We were allowed to take photos from the bridge that goes over the train station. There was one place where a couple of the guys asked to have their pictures taken. 


Furakan, our guide in Dharavi


 Pan, our guide

Yes, there are a lot of people in such a small space, but crime is all by nonexistent and everyone works together and they also share in food and festivities. It really was a very special experience and we enjoyed the visit very much. 
The tour company gave us a small gift and it was coasters that were hand painted by children in Dharavi. Colorful and cute! I already made one into a magnet. 
 ride back to port








We made it back on time to the ship and we cleaned up for dinner which offered many Indian dishes. 
The show tonight was very good. It was Jane Cho playing the electric violin. She is a Korean woman but lives in Australia, so she had an interesting accent. (Kind of like in Panama where we have Chinese that speak Spanish.) At the end of her show, she mentioned that she was newly married and wanted to introduce her husband. It turned out to be Michael Falzon, the singer from a couple of nights ago. They performed a song together which was really good. 
Now, for 2 much needed sea days before Dubai. Plus, we gain another ½ hour tonight as we set the clocks back the other half hour to make a full hour.
Thank you all for your patience with photos which won't be updated until after our 3 days in Dubai.

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