Retired Nomads: Lake Titicaca - Floating Islands of Uros & Taquile Island, Peru

Friday March 9

Lake Titicaca is at 12,507 feet altitude and the highest navigable lake in the world.
The Uru or Uros (Uru: Qhas Qut suñi) are an indigenous people of Peru and Bolivia. They live on 92 self-fashioned floating islands in Lake Titicaca near Puno. They form three main groups: Uru-Chipayas, Uru-Muratos and the Uru-Iruitos. The latter are still located on the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca and Desaguadero River.

The Uru use bundles of dried totora reeds to make reed boats (balsas), and to make the islands themselves.

The larger islands house about ten families, while smaller ones, only about thirty meters wide, house only two or three families.

The islets are made of totora reeds, which grow in the lake. The dense roots that the plants develop and interweave form a natural layer called Khili (about one to two meters thick) that support the islands. They are anchored with ropes attached to sticks driven into the bottom of the lake. The reeds at the bottoms of the islands rot away fairly quickly, so new reeds are added to the top constantly, about every three months; this is what makes it exciting for tourists when walking on the island. This is especially important in the rainy season when the reeds rot much faster. The islands last about thirty years.

Each step on an island sinks about 2-4" depending on the density of the ground underfoot. As the reeds dry, they break up more and more as they are walked upon. As the reed breaks up and moisture gets to it, it rots, and a new layer has to be added to it. It is a lot of work to maintain the islands. Because the people living there receive so many tourists now, they have less time to maintain everything, so they have to work even harder in order to keep up with the tourists and with the maintenance of their island. Tourism provides financial opportunities for the natives, while simultaneously challenging their traditional lifestyle.

Food is cooked with fires placed on piles of stones. To relieve themselves, tiny 'outhouse' islands are near the main islands. The ground root absorbs the waste. They now use chemical toilets as in the past they just used the lake and of course that was poluting the lake.

early morning view of Lake Titicaca - view from hotel

one of the numerous Guinea Pigs on the grounds

Puno Teal

Chiguanco Thrush

Slate-colored Coot

Our guides today were Aldo and Willy. Both were most excellent. The speedboat was enclosed so it was nice inside as the morning was brisk. Later in the day it warmed up and we went topside for the views.

in the boat

approaching the islands

the family on the island we are visiting greets us

We got off our boat onto one of the islands and it was awesome walking on the floating reeds. We were shown how they build the islands and divide them when they want to make a new island. The number of islands changes frequently as families grow and they spli the island or consolidate and island to make a bigger one. We saw where the children go to school. We were invited to see inside their homes made of reeds. Of course there was shopping. They sell many items they sew or make from reeds.

she laid blankets on the "couch"

The Chief

the group

one of the reeds they make everything out of - you can eat the white part & I tasted it

he demonstrates how they divide the islands with this saw

the Chief demonstrated how they build the reed mats to make the islands

they performed for us

we were invited to visit inside one of the homes

the guy taking the photos liked to hold it low and shoot up

of course they set up a market

closeup of the reed floor

Then we had the opportunity to ride in one of their "Mercedes Benz" reed boats. We lucked out and had a lovely sunny day (it's rainy season) and we sat on top on the ride to the next island.

Yellow-winged Blackbird

the family waving good-bye to us

The Chief & his wife rowed the reed boat

2 of the kids sang for us on the boat ride

We toured one more island that has a "motel" on it. (about $25 a night) No heat and it's just a reed house like they live in.

the motel room

inside

Back on our speedboat we take a few more final shots of the area

pushing a reed boat back to one of the islands

Then it was time to go to Taquille Island (an actual island not a man-made one).

White-tufted Grebe

On the way we dropped 2 guys from our boat that had brought the ingredients for our lunch in a cooler and a tank of propane to take to the restaurant where we would have lunch later.

restaurant we would return to later

We had a 40 minute hike from one side of Taquille Island to the other walking uphill at that altitude was not for the feint of heart. It was absolutely beautiful with sheep, cows, farm lands and the indigenous people going about their daily lives. They are known for their weaving and knitting. We were welcomed by a group and we were taught how to greet them and we greeted each one of them as we shook their hands going down the line. Then, we were seated and they showed us how they made shampoo and washed wool. The men knit and the women weave and they showed us how they did that. Then, they sang and danced for us and invited us to dance with them. One of the young girls picked me.

We saw people milking cows, herding sheep and the countryside was gorgeous. Due to the sunny day, we all were taking off a few layers of clothing as we walked.

on the island

we walked up from the bottom to start the hike

Cream-winged Cinclodes

Andean Lapwing (bad photo, but it's the only one we got)

terraced gardens

it does look like a face

knitting while he walks

cemetery

Peruvian-Sierra Finch

young boys knitting

they greeted each of us

making soap

they set up a market (of course)

our walk to the restaurant to the other side of the island

they grow many varieties of quinoa

check out the horns....

beautiful view at the top

Sparkling Violetear

the path down to the restaurant

We made it back to the boat and then went another half hour back to La Casa Del Pescador Restaurante for lunch. They put out a great buffet.

We started with a Quinoa soup that was very good. Then they brought out various dishes that included cold vegetables, chicken, fish, quinoa croquets, rice, sweet potatoes and white potatoes. All of it was very tasty. For desert they made black quinoa pancakes with berry and honey syrup. They tasted like chocolate. Surprisingly good!

We had some free time and there was a couple that we hiked with that were interesting to talk with; currently living in Kansas and even lived in Iowa a few times as well (originally from Iran, but they have lived in the States for 40 years). The other couple was from Portugal. One guy owns a restaurant there and the other guy was the head chef. We chatted with them while everyone else went outside and sat in the chairs watching the lake.

Yellow-billed Teal

the reataurant

boarding the boat

Titicaca Grebe

Then, it was time to reboard the boat and go back to the hotel. We all pretty much just napped all the way back. These tours are always my favorites, I just love the local color. Peru in general is a favorite country of mine. Their family colors are amazing. Each family has their own style of dress, colors, hats, belts etc.

As we were getting off the boat we noticed a party going on next to the hotel and our guide said they were doing a tree cutting ceremony. They do it once a year and whoever is the one to take the final blow that fells the tree gets to plan the next years party. Greg and I watched them for a long time as they circle the tree singing and dancing. They were all in native dress and they were drinking and spraying fake snow at each other. They would pour alcohol on the tree and on the axe and everyone took turns chopping at the tree and then dancing and passing the axe to the next person. (men and women alike). Finally, it came down and they ascended upon the tree trying to get the items that were hung in the tree. Interesting to watch! They were still partying until a thunder storm stopped their outdoor fun.

back at the hotel

tree cutting ceremony

there it goes...

they ascended on the tree to grab the trinkets in it

There were a lot of guinea pigs on the grounds of the hotel and a couple of alpacas. We walked around the local area around the hotel, but really not much there without taking a cab into downtown Puno.

the hotel

hotel lobby

fried guinea pig - Cuy

Peruvian Sierra Finch

the rain had cleared and they resumed the party

We had a 7:00 pickup time to go to dinner and a folkloric show in Puno. (courtesy of Jaime from Patagoniashorex) It rained while we were waiting at the hotel, but finished by the time we left. Our guide and driver picked us up and we had a short tour of Puno before arriving at Balcones del Puno where we had a very good dinner and one of the best folkloric shows we have ever seen. We saw one in Lima on our first trip and it was good, but this one was really nice. We had alpaca steak and chicken with potatoes and Pisco Sours. Our guide was waiting for us when we left the show after 9:00 and he would have taken us around to the town square and church, but we had a 5:30 pickup the next morning and we just wanted to go back to the hotel. We had already had the most perfect day on the islands and the dinner and the show were the icing on the cake.

walking to the restaurant

pisco sours

sign we saw on the walk back to the car

****to give you an idea of how much we save doing private excursions, for the Nazca Lines trip Princess charged $750.00 per person. Private tours were $190 to $250 per person. Of course there isn't always that much savings, but even if it were the same price the big bus tours of up to 45 people are just not fun to deal with. Yes, there can be problems with private tours, but you can experience that on Princess as well. (or whatever cruise line you use)

Up bright and early tomorrow for our transport to the airport and our flight back to Lima.