Saturday, February 16, 2019

Stewart Island & Ulva Island, New Zealand – February 16

Stewart Island, New Zealand – February 16

The Patter had a 560* temperature for today. Gotta love a good typo. (56*, if it got that high, was the high for the day) Hopefully this will be our coldest port on this trip. We were up at 5:00 to get ready and meet for the tenders. It was cold, windy & a bit rainy! 

This was our first visit here. I booked a private birding tour on Ulva Island and an afternoon wildlife cruise in the afternoon. Princess again shortened our time here by an hour which was a bit of a rush, but both tour operators worked with our timeframe. Then, we found out that the last tender was another 15 minutes earlier than usual. 

The birding tour was for just the 2 of us so we could easily rework the timing and the wildlife cruise was a special time set up for us if I could get the minimum number of people to go. So, several friends on the cruise joined and we got confirmed. 

We got the first tender and there were only 5 of us on the tender, but they took us over without waiting to fill it up. 

 views from the tender





I booked the birding tour with Ulva of Ulva Island Guided Walks - http://www.ulva.co.nz/ I highly recommend her! 

The tenders brought us to Golden Bay Wharf and Ulva agreed to pick us up there and take us to our water taxi which departed from Half Moon Bay. (the main township of Oban, Halfmoon Bay area) We were early as she was scheduled to meet us at 8:00. I checked out the Red Shed (gift shop and tourist info center) while we waited. I scoped out my token magnet to pick up later.

 welcome center & ferry station

 nice rainbow


 now we can see the entire rainbow

Ulva Island is an open sanctuary which is a predator-free birdwatching and a nature lover’s paradise. (South Island Saddleback, Tomtit, Rifleman, Stewart Island Robin, Brown Creeper, Tui, Kaka, Fantail, NZ Pigeon, Yellow and Red-crowned Kakariki (parakeets), Bellbird, Yellowhead & more.) Ulva Island is the southern-most bird sanctuary in the world.

We got on the water taxi and another couple was also on board. Then, Toni & John got on board. The water taxi skipper asked who they were and were they with us. We said no and so did Ulva. John said they were booked on a tour with Beaks & Feathers. The skipper said, then you are on the wrong water taxi. So, they got off and we were on our way. Toni left her umbrella behind and we offered to take it for them, but the guide said, don’t worry we will get it to them. 
 Ulva & vehicle









former postmasters home

We had a fantastic morning with Ulva. She got us quickly away so when the group tours came, we would be long gone. We saw just tons of birds. She was a great guide and we birded easily together. We actively search as well, and she spotted things we never would have seen, and she was pleased when we saw something she didn’t. 

In the forest we were out of the wind, so it didn’t seem so cold. Ulva also pointed out the various mosses, lichens, trees, seasonal orchids and more. One orchid was blooming, and she said it generally doesn’t bloom until April. 


 New Zealand Kaka
 New Zealand Kaka
 New Zealand Kaka
New Zealand Kaka
 New Zealand Robin
 New Zealand Robin

 New Zealand Robin



lone orchid in bloom

Besides seeing so many birds, the forest was alive with bird songs and calls. We came across lots of parrots and got very good views of the Southern Saddleback. We also came upon about 9 or so Red-fronted parakeets and Ulva explained they were a group of juveniles that probably got “kicked out of the nest” and were learning to be on their own. They seemed to be playing with each other. 

 Red-crowned Parakeet


Then, we came across a couple of parrots that were doing their mating courtship. All was going well until he must have done something she didn’t like, and he flew off. Ulva said that they have a long mating ritual of about a half an hour which is extremely long for birds. 
 New Zeland Kaka - failed courtship


 she didn't like something at this point
 see-through fern
 South Island Saddleback
 South Island Saddleback



 Red-crowned Parakeet


 New Zealand Pigeon

Along the way we came across many of their Stewart Island Robbins. (they look nothing like an American Robin) They would come right up to you. She would take her walking stick and scratch up some of the earth to expose possible food below and they would come right over and start stomping around. One almost got on my shoe. Just adorable little birds. We also saw the smallest bird the Rifelman.










 New Zealand Robin









 Yellowhead

 See-through fern

 leaf used to be used for paper
 "ink" from a tree



We did a beach walk on the side of the island that was windy and raining sideways. (luckily, it was a short walk). She was hoping to find some Kiwi foraging on the beach.




 New Zealand Robin

 Weka
 Weka
Sydney Cove

Ulva found an owl well hidden in a tree. I don’t know how she saw it. She said she saw the bird poo and looked up. When you see the picture you will see how well it was hidden.

 Southerm Boobook Owl
 Southerm Boobook Owl
Southerm Boobook Owl

New Zealand Robin

On the last trail we were coming to the end of our tour and I could tell she was really searching for a bird. She was looking for a ground bird and she said she often sees a mother & chick in the area but didn’t want to mention the name in case she jinxed it. We saw a Weka which I thought might have been a Kiwi until I saw its’ bill. She seemed to think we probably wouldn’t see a Kiwi because if we saw one now it would be totally random. We stopped at one area and she asked each of us how we were feeling, were we feeling alright? We seemed puzzled and she jokingly said you are now at the highest point in the forest. (barely above sea level) lol. In the middle of a sentence she said “don’t react; but turn around slowly. No, don’t turn around. There is a Kiwi directly behind you (meaning Greg).” We both slowly turned and sure enough there was one right behind him. We tiptoed to follow it and it was so close it was very hard to get photos. We both took some bad photos in hopes of getting a good one. The Kiwi crossed the path in front of us and then foraged around the undergrowth for quite a while. We watched him at least 10 to 15 minutes. Once she was in the undergrowth, she was very hard to see, but she came coming and going where we could get glimpses of her. Ulva was thrilled; and I was doing a very quiet happy dance! 
 Southern Brown Kiwi (Stewart island sub-species) from the back
Kiwi is on the left of the trail
 Southern Brown Kiwi (Stewart island sub-species) 







Kiwi are nocturnal except for this species on Stewart Island. So, we were very excited to see this one.

We continued on and did another short beach walk on the other coast, so it was pleasant unlike the beach walk on the other side. We made it just in time for our water taxi back to Stewart Island.



Ulva drove us past where we would meet for our afternoon tour and then drove us to a supermarket to pick up some ready-made sandwiches for a quick lunch since we only had about 15 minutes before our meeting time. We had hoped to eat at the Kai Kart, but there just wasn’t enough time. I knew time would be tight so not Ulva’s fault. We said our goodbyes and she gave us bookmarks with the list of birds on the island.

We walked and ate the short distance to the Ruggedy Range office. I booked the tour through Paterson Inlet Wildlife Cruise - http://www.ruggedyrange.com It was supposed to be 1:30 to 4:00 until Princess shortened the time so it was then changed to 1:00 until 3:30. Then, 1:00 to 3:15 to make the last tender. 

Bob & Phyllis were already there and checked in. Bob had already told them about our shortened time and they said no worries they would have us back at 3:15 giving us a half an hour until the last ferry. (it was a short walk back to the ship) Another couple staying in a hotel were also on the tour. I felt bad that they got their tour shortened because of our group, but they seemed fine about it. It was time to go and we were still missing 4 people. 

The girl drove around the small town a couple of times to see if we could find them. One couple missing had booked the shuttle between the wharfs and should have been there. Finally, the driver said I don’t know what to do, we need to go. We all agreed that everyone was adults and we needed to leave.

They got us on the small tour boat and it was quite wavy so the skipper pulled away and waited to see if the others would appear. Tim & Liz came and said they thought the time was 1:30 not 1:00. The girl that drove us saw them walking and picked them up and brought them to us. John & Toni never came. So, our already shortened time for the cruise was cut short by another 45 minutes waiting.

skipper on Patterson Inlet cruise

 Bob & Phyllis
 Bob & Phyllis




 Shy Albatross
 Shy Albatross
 Shy Albatross




 Shy Albatross







 Buller's Albatross
 Buller's Albatross
 Buller's Albatross
 Buller's Albatross
 Shy Albatross


 Buller's Albatross
 Buller's Albatross
 Buller's Albatross
 Shy Albatross
 our ship
 Buller's Albatross
 Cormorants

 Cormorant with nesting material in it's  mouth


 feeding frenzy



































We had great Albatross sightings (though no Royal like yesterday). There were many Sooty Shearwaters. There was a huge baitfish ball and there was a feeding frenzy that was phenomenal to watch; and skipper gently guided us into them. We also saw some fur seals. It was a nice day out on the water. 

The shuttle driver drove us all the way back to where we would catch the tender. She also made a point to show the couple the email where they acknowledged the change in times and when and where to meet. 


Red Shed - Gift Shop & Tourist Info

Since we had a half an hour Phyllis & I went to the Red Shed to spend off our last NZ dollars where I got my token magnet. Liz didn’t think we had time, so she didn’t come. We all were on the same tender back even with the shopping. We saw John & Toni and Bob asked what happened? John just said “It didn’t work out. We were doing other things” So, we don’t know why they didn’t make the afternoon tour. It was prepaid with no refund, so the tour operator wasn’t out their money. 

We got cleaned up for dinner in the dining room and got caught up with Roy & Rondi on what everyone did in the last 2 ports. 

 Kadek, Yulia & Mario (not sure the name was Mario)

The evening entertainment was Will Martin, a very young and talented tenor. What an amazing show tonight. The sound guy continues to blast the background music way too loud as it sometimes drowned out his singing or piano playing. 

Tonight, we got an extra hour as we set our clocks back another hour.

Now for 2 sea days to relax before Sydney. Be patient with photos as they will take me a while. 



Stewart & Ulva Island, New Zealand https://photos.app.goo.gl/sXLaz8PCTQNGTGeA6

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